Fitting the port second bottom.
(07-JUN-2006)
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Transition point.
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Butt joint detail.
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The second bottom's scarf joint is staggered 6" aft of the first bottom's joint.
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Both second bottom panels installed.
(08-JUN-2006)
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Bow detail.
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Screw holes were puttied with
Interlux Watertite YAV135. It's a two-part,
fast drying epoxy compound for filling holes, repairing scratches in gelcoat and fairing
fiberglass. It can also be used below the waterline to fill gelcoat blisters.
(10-JUN-2006)
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On Friday night we fiberglassed the starboard bottom.
We feathered the panel edges on Saturday afternoon and applied the port
bottom late Saturday night. Starboard side was applied late Sunday night.
(18-JUN-2006)
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Notice the starboard side overlap at the bow. The digital camera is
having a rough time rendering smooth, shiny surfaces. Time to upgrade
to a better quality unit !!
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Side overlaps the transom.
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Port bottom will have to be feathered before applying the side.
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We're applying the fiberglass cloth using the 'dry method'. 6.5 oz. cloth
is draped over the hull and taped in position. Panel overlap is 5". This
allows for sufficient overlap and a 1-1/2" wide strip for feathering.
(19-JUN-2006)
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Stretching the cloth diagonally eliminates wrinkles. Spring steel paper
clamps and masking tape are removed after the cloth has been saturated with epoxy.
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Took Friday off to feather the overlaps and sand the hull with 40 grit sandpaper.
Straight-line and orbital air files saved a lot of time on this job. We splurged
on a DeWalt commercial duty 6" variable speed orbital sander for feathering the overlaps.
The hull was rinsed with water, scuffed with a 3M scotch pad and allowed to dry overnight.
Three rounds of epoxy spaced about two hours apart were applied on Saturday.
(25-JUN-2006)
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Filling and fairing is next !
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Over the long weekend, we laminated three strips of fiberglass cloth on the
chine and transom edges and ground them to a crisp profile.
(01-JUL-2006)
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