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Compare the unfaired side (left) to the faired side (right).
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Here you can see unfaired frame # 7 (background) and the
faired frame (foreground).
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Installing the battens and fairing.
(15-JAN-2005)
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We'll be sheeting with the optional 1/2" botom in the flatter aft area
and two layers of 1/4" in the forward section. A template for the
first bottom layer is being fitted.
(28-JAN-2005)
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The chine was covered in masking tape and the bottom/side planking
junction was marked with a pencil. Using a pneumatic die grinder
outfitted with a 1/2" deburring rasp makes quick work of cutting
a series of 'mouseholes' every six inches or so along the panel's edge.
Trim the slots back until the transition line is visible.
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Note the cleft to the right of the last slot. From this point
aft, the bottom planking will be faired flush with the side of
the chine.
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A thin flexible batten is sprung and clamped along the panel's slots
before marking with a pencil.
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Remove the clamps and trim to size.
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Recessing the forward portion of the chine.
Plate 19-E from Glen-L's
Boatbuilding with Plywood depicts methods for handling
thickness variations between side and bottom planking.
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A simple jig made from a piece of 1/4" plywood is used to form
a steady base for the router.
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The keel must also be recessed to accomodate the thicknes of the plywood.
The 'Rabl' method and a router is used (freehand) to fair the surface.
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