Several bricks are used to clamp the joint. Excessive weight
will squeeze too much epoxy from the joint and lead to an unsound joint.
In the background, we're fitting the douglas fir side planking template
to the side of the boat.
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The frame sides must be faired so that they don't project against
the plywood planking. This would cause a 'hard spot' which could
cause the panel to fracture. Our trusty router jig was clamped to
the side of the frame.
(18-APR-2006)
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The router bit depth was set to cut 1/16" below the chine surface.
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The operation was repeated at the sheer junction. A block plane
was used to fair the remainder of the frame.
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Starboard side planking installed. The port side is being fitted.
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Two scarf joints fall between frames #4 and #6.
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View from the starboard rear. The tumblehome is quite severe
but the 5 ply marine plywood conforms to the radius quite easily.
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Side planking was fastened with 1" #8 screws spaced 3" apart at the chine
and 4" apart at the sheer.
(11-MAY-2006)
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Screws will be spaced 2" apart at the stem and transom.
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Drainage limbers were cut into the rear battens. Router depth
was set at 3/8".
(15-MAY-2006)
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Setting up the radial arm saw to cut a 3" wide by 1/4" deep rabbet on
the leading edge of the 1/2" bottom plywood. A 'wobble' dado blade
set at 11/16" wide speeds up the process. A 1" x 2" guide batten is
clamped to the stock and runs along the saw table apron.
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Closeup view of the rabbet.
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Both 1/2" panels installed.
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The first 1/4" front panel butts to the rear ply. The second
1/4" panel overlaps the rear ply by 3".
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1/2" plywood butt blocks will be fitted between the limbers.
A jigsaw was used to trim around the shaft hole. A 1-3/4" diameter hole saw
makes quick work of cutting the rudder port hole.
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