|
|
Normally the deck fiberglass would overlap the deck-sheer junction with a two or three inch
overlap on the sheer. This would entail refairing a two or three inch wide strip of
fiberglass along the complete length of the sheer. This is a lot of extra work !
We've laminated two 3/4" wide strips of 2 ounce fiberglass matt to the sheer to form a
'shoebox' flange to which the deck fiberglass will be draped over. Total area to be sanded
is reduced to a 3/4" wide strip along the sheer. The flange is wide enough to receive a
stainless steel rub rail.
(05-APR-2009)
|
(04-MAY-2009)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Blocking for the aft stainless steel pop-up deck cleats wax glued up.
(19-JUN-2010)
|
Blocking was barrier coated.
|
Deck sheeting was cut out for the pop-up cleats.
|
Cleat in the 'up' position.
|
Close-up shot.
|
|
Deck blocking was added to handle the plywood joint.
(15-JUL-2010)
|
We ran the blocking at an angle so that any hard spots could be spread across a larger area.
|
The front deck panel was trimmed to fit.
|
With the rear deck panels installed, it's time to put a 1/2" radius on the deck ply at the transom. We
bolted two pieces of 2" x 4" through the transom tie down bolt holes.
(18-JUL-2010)
|
We dug out the transom frame template (one of 160 templates we built for this boat !) and screwed it into the two
pieces of 2" x 4".
|
This will give us some support for the router.
|
A 1/2" round-over bit makes quick work of rounding the edge for applying fiberglass.
|
Deck was covered with 10 ounce fiberglass cloth. The cloth was draped around the radiused 'shoebox'
edge. We had previously built up several layers of fiberglass mat and cloth along the sheer to form
a 'shoebox' joint along the sheer. This deck-to-hull joint is used in fiberglass boats and saves a
lot of time as the deck cloth doesn't overlap the hull, only a 3/4" wide strip at the sheer.
(22-JUL-2010)
|
More cloth was applied to the rear cockpit carlings.
|
Cloth overlap will be ground down flush.
|