Building the Glen-L HOT ROD - Deck Page - Page 2
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Click to enlarge. We've moved the boat from its trailer to our steel boat dolly.  Much easier to work on the boat this way !

Click to enlarge. Fiberglass was blocked out with a straight-line air file fitted with 40 grit paper.

Click to enlarge. We'll be applying three coats of West epoxy resin before the first sanding.

Click to enlarge. Time spent tweaking the sheer line was well worth the effort !  You'll notice the frame outline templates hanging on the wall next to the clock. 

Click to enlarge. The deck will be painted, so to produce a solid base for sanding, we applied three rounds of West System epoxy catalysed with 207 hardener.   Each coat was allowed to cure for three hours before applying the next coat.

Click to enlarge. A very light coat of epoxy was applied with a 6" foam roller ...

Click to enlarge. ... and tipped with a West 8" foam roller cut in half and affixed to the end of a 24" piece of 1" x 2".

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Click to enlarge. The tipping tool is lightly dragged on the epoxy surface until the tool starts to stutter.  This breaks up the air bubbles induced by rolling on the epoxy and distributes a very thin coat of epoxy.  You'll save many hours of sanding if you can minimize surface texture and runs !

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Click to enlarge. The rear deck was sanded with an inline air file with 40 grit sandpaper and blocked with a longboard.  The initial sanding was followed up with two barrier coats of West System epoxy catalysed with 207 hardener spaced three hours apart.  The extra coats provide a thick sanding base.   The hull sides were also air filed and blocked with a longboard.  Surface was wiped down with DuPont Wash & Wipe (wax, grease and silicone remover) prior to spraying several rounds of DuPont URO Prime urethane primer surfacer.  (04-AUG-2010)

Click to enlarge. Transom deck to hull fiberglass was feathered, blocked and primed.  Many of the DuPont industrial coatings we've used over the years have been phased out because they can't meet the strict environmental VOC regulations. 

Click to enlarge. The whole side of the hull was blocked and primed to improve the surface quality.

Click to enlarge. The sides are ready for final blocking.

Click to enlarge. A transit level was used to mark a 6" waterline on the hull.  It was taped, masked and prepped. (09-AUG-2010)

Click to enlarge. We applied two rounds of DuPont 1141S 2K urethane primer-filler.  This is a very fine finish 3 part white primer we use as a sealer for light colored topcoats.  We'll be shooting Corvette yellow over this base coat.

Click to enlarge. The deck is ready for blocking and a second round of primer-surfacer.

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Click to enlarge. Not much new to see here, just more blocking and priming until the panels are flawless !  The deck was blocked with 40 and 100 grit paper on the inline air file.  This was followed up with the longboard, by hand.  A round of 3M Marine body filler was applied to fill pinholes and minor imperfections and sanded out.  A second round of primer was applied.  (12-AUG-2010)

Click to enlarge. If the second round of primer blocks out without any sanding break-throughs, a sealer coat will be applied.  Normally this would be followed up with the final color topcoat, but we're anxious to hit the water, so the paint will be done once the boating season is over.

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Building the Glen-L Hot Rod :      Revised 02-MAY-2011