Building the Glen-L HOT ROD - Flotation Page
 
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Regulations

In Canada, you need a license to use your boat. Registration is optional. If you wish to insure your boat, a marine survey is required. The surveyor will establish that the boat you've crafted meets or exceeds marine construction standards, including flotation. Unless you've used USCG approved flotation foam, you'll be wasting your time trying to get non-approved materials through the process.

If you’re building a boat in Canada and want to register it (e.g. Hull Identification Number and Capacity Plate) flotation is mandatory. I didn’t want the foam in direct contact with the hull plywood or framing, especially during storage. If you think it’s a lot of extra work, you’re absolutely right !! We’re fitting another 3 cubic feet under the deck along the sheers, intermediate frames and transom deck. The other issue is weight. I’m not too happy about hauling an extra 15 to 20 pounds which will mess up the boat’s balance if it’s not spread evenly throughout the hull.

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Links

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Construction Standards

A pleasure craft shall meet the current construction standards.  If its date of construction is before the day on which these Regulations come into force, the pleasure craft shall meet the construction requirements in force on that date.

702 - Pleasure Craft

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Licensing

Image of boat License A pleasure craft licence is a unique licence number which is affixed to your boat. The number allows Search and Rescue personnel to access important information in an emergency.  In Canada, a licence is mandatory for all pleasure craft equipped with motors of 10 horsepower (7.5 kilowatts) or more, including personal watercraft.  As of November 1, 2010, Transport Canada is the only federal institution issuing Pleasure Craft Licences.  The pleasure craft licence is free of charge, however, a licence is not a title document.  You must also carry other documents, such as a document that establishes ownership, to help avoid delays clearing U.S. or Canada customs, or in case of a fine.

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Registration

Registration is optional for all pleasure craft.  You do not need a pleasure craft licence if a boat is registered

The Transport Canada Website explains the difference between a pleasure craft licence and pleasure craft registration, and which vessels need which documents.

Procedures for Registration in Canada

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Insurance

If you wish to insure your boat, your insurance broker may require a marine survey for insurance purposes.  The survey will determine if the vessel meets the Construction Standards and will provide a fair market value or replacement cost.  The vessel construction standards include a requirement for flotation.

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Maximum safe load and Persons Capacity

Image of boat License The Maximum safe load and the persons capacity that a boat can carry is based on the displacement weight of a boat.  Displacement weight is essentially the amount of weight that it would take to sink your boat.  There are several ways to find this out.  You can calculate the volume of water displaced (hence displacement) when the boat is sunk to the point where water starts to come in, also called the static float plane.  Multiply this volume times 62.4 (the weight of one cubic foot of fresh water).

The link below explains the USCG rules :

Safe Loading And Capacity (USCG)

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Displacement

Your boat's Displacement at LWL might be stated on your plans ... Info was included on the Hot Rod plans ! Look for a section listing Overall Length, Waterline Length, Beam, Disp. at L.W.L and CB.

If not listed on your plans, the link below explains how to obtain the estimated hull displacement weight.

As a plans provider, Glen-L Marine Designs isn't required to calculate Maximum Boat Capacity :

"When the US Boating and Safety Act was first passed we assumed we would be required to calculate these figures for each design.  We contacted the USCG to ask how we should go about this and they asked if we built the boats... no, then you cannot make the calculations.  Only the builder can certify the figures as the builder may not follow the plans."

Source : WebLetter 99

Numerical methods may be used to determine the weight required to sink the boat to the sheer level (swamped float plane) :

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Hull Identification Number (HIN)

Also note that Section 1.2.2.9 Exceptions for the Marking of Hull Serial Number (HIN) (page 14) states that ... a vessel is not required to be marked with a hull serial number if ... the vessel is constructed, manufactured, rebuilt or imported by an individual for personal use.

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Flotation foam calculator

If you're from the USA, you may want to review flotation regulations in the Boatbuilder's Handbook (PDF), more specifically, Subpart G — Flotation Requirements For Outboard Boats Rated for Engines of More Than 2 Horsepower.

  • Level Flotation applies to monohull outboard boats that are less than 20 feet.  You must calculate how much foam will be needed to support the boat, the machinery, and a portion of the passengers.  Flotation material must be installed in specific locations to ensure that the swamped boat floats in a level position.

    Here's a link to a sample calculation : Example of Level Flotation Calculations


  • Basic Flotation applies to inboards, inboard/outdrives and air boats less than 20 feet in length.  In Basic Flotation, the boat must be kept afloat in the event of a swamping but it does not have to remain in an upright or any specific position.

We've developed an Excel spreadsheet for calculating flotation foam requirements for inboards.  The numbers were run for the Glen-L Hot Rod and accepted by Transport Canada.  The spreadsheet was later modified for the Glen-L Monaco.  A copy of the spreadsheet is available for dowload.  If you're proficient with Excel and patient enough to review the outboard regulations, the spreadsheet can be tweaked to suit the outboard flotation requirements.

Disclaimer : The spreadsheet can be a little tweaky -- use at your own risk ! Regulations are constantly evolving, so modifications may be required to suit current standards.

 

Glen-L Monaco flotation calculation

Click the 'Sheet 2' tab at the bottom of the frame to display
specific gravity & dry and submerged weights.


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Foam installation

If you plan to install flotation foam in the bilge, either USCG approved foam or encapsulated non-compliant foam should be used.   You may be creating a fire hazard if using non-encapsulated foam.  Try igniting a small piece of foam with a lighter or blowtorch to see if it passes the test.  The results may shock you ...

Level Flotation Material Requirements

FEDERAL LAW

183.222 - Flotation material and air chambers

(a) Flotation materials must meet the requirements in Sec. 183.114 as listed in Table 183.114 when used in the bilge, unless located in a sealed compartment.

Definitions :

The bilge is the volume located below a line parallel to the reference waterline. This line is located 4" up from the lowest point where water may accumulate in the boat.

Sealed compartment means an enclosure that can resist an exterior water level of 12 inches without seepage of more than one-quarter fluid ounce per hour.

Source : http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boatbuilder_s_handbook/flotation_part2_c.aspx

We installed most of the foam up high under the deck before laying the deck. Not much help when you're trying to retrofit to a finished boat, but useful if you're still in the build phase.

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Reserve buoyancy

Appendix II Calculations of Buoy Buoyancy and Payload Size Considerations The objective is to determine how much water (in weight) the buoy displaces. So, first, calculate its volume. Then, using the specific weight of water (62 lb. per cubic foot) determine how much weight of water would be displaced if the structure was completely submerged. Then, subtract from that the actual air weight of the object. This gives give you its reserve buoyancy, or an amount of payload you can add to it before it sinks.

Mathematically, the equation for buoyancy is calculated by determining the volume of the object and subtracting the air weight of the object (put it on a scale). The resultant number is the reserve buoyancy.

The equation is :

Reserve Buoyancy = (Vol of air inside the object (ft3) x 62 lb/ft 3 – (air weight of object in lbs)

Source : http://secoora.org/sites/default/files/webfm/classroom/documents/BOBBuildManual030410.pdf

From a practical standpoint, smaller non-powered plywood boats often have no flotation installed, or may only need a minimal amount since plywood will support about 45% more weight in addition to its own weight before it becomes submerged. Here's another point to consider if you can't figure out where to install all that foam. Once submerged, wood will support about 45% more weight in addition to its own weight before it sinks. You'll be using up your safety factor and may have to recover the boat if it sinks. For example :

Submerged weight of frames = 172 lbs
Submerged weight of lumber and ply = 289 lbs
Total submerged weight = 461 lbs * .45 = 217 lbs required to sink the submerged hull
This would save 217 / 63 = 3.4 cubic feet of foam

Reference : Boatbuilding with Plywood by Glen L Witt, Appendix, Adding Flotation, pg 297

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Foam Moldings Tips

  • Mold Release Agents : If you don't have any PVA Release Agent, a silicone-free wax such as Johson's Floor Paste Wax can be used. Spraying your mold with PAM cooking oil should work.  For large, flat areas, we spread out some contact cement and applied aluminum foil and plastic film.

  • Instead of installing foam in the bilge, consider installing foam billets under your deck.  This moves the foam out of the bilge area and prevent the boat from turtling over if it was mounted low in the hull.

  • Level flotation is required for outboards, so casting a few blocks up high along the gunwales would help to support the rear of the boat.

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Flotation Foam Suppliers

If you don't want to mess with a pour-in-place foam and prefer the point-and-shoot convenience of a spray foam, Fomo Products' Handi-Foam® Slow Rise Foam meets the U.S.Coast Guard Spec.  Look for it at your local big box store or building supply outlet.

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Related Links

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Casting expandable foam billets for the Glen-L Hot Rod

To meet Transport Canada regulations, we'll be adding 8 cubic feet of flotation foam to the boat.  The intent is to install the bulk of the foam up high under the deck.  This will require building an in-situ mold which will conform to the curvature of the deck beams.  A foam thickness of 3 inches will yield 5 cubic feet of flotation material in the forward deck.  An additionnal 3 or 4 cubic feet will be cast under the deck between the carlings and sheer clamps, intermediate deck at frame # 4 and across the transom deck.  The custom molded blocks will be fastened to the deck battens so that they can be easily removed for competition use or storage.  If this sounds like a lot of extra work, you're right !

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A template for the top frame lamination was traced onto a piece of 1/2" Black Joe building board. (31-JAN-2007)

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A jigsaw was used to cut the stock 1/4" oversize.  The piece was then fastened to the 3/8" thick template with 3/4" screws and trimmed on the router table.

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Closeup of the top-bearing trim bit.

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The screws were removed from the stock.

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A duplicate piece was produced.

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The two pieces were installed on each side of the frame and taped to hold them in position.

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Once the foam has been poured and has cured, the inner piece will be extracted first.  This will allow easy removal of the outer piece when the foam core is unmolded.

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Here's a shot of the two 1/4" plywood panels which will be installed on the bottom of the frames.  They were coated with contact cement and covered with aluminum foil.  A plastic autobody filler squeegee was used to apply the foil and remove air pockets and wrinkles.  We'll be laminating one layer of 6 ounce fiberglass cloth on this surface before pouring the foam.  In the winter, the shop is home to many snowmobiles in for maintenance or repair.  This is my 2003 Rev 600 HO waiting for its regular maintenance.  Due to the lack of snow this year, we've only been out once this year (2 day trip, 450 km).  I guess we'll keep working on the boat until the trail conditions improve !

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The frames were wrapped with plastic before installing the bottom mold pieces.  Support for the plywood was provided by clamping scrap lengths of spruce 1" X 3" to the underside of the ply. (03-FEB-2007)

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Wood shims were jammed between the plywood and strapping to minimize gaps between the center part of the mold and frames.

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Two 1/2" Black Joe side spacers were installed along the sheer and covered with plastic film.  Duct tape was used to seal all the seams.

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6 oz. fiberglass cloth was dry-fitted to the mold.

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The cloth was wet out with catalysed polyester resin.  A second coat of resin was applied after the initial coat had cured.  In the background, resting on the transom, you can see the piece we molded for the bow section.  A single 8 liter pour foam kit wasn't enough to do the job.  We're 1 quart short . . .  We'll have to order more foam on Monday !

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The second kit we ordered last week was picked up this afternoon.  Four small batches (10 ounces Part A, 10 ouces Part B) were mixed and poured into the molds to complete the job.  An old crosscut handsaw was used to trim the expanded foam flush with the frame tops.  (10-FEB-2007)

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Once the foam was fully cured, the spacer blocks were removed from the sides of the mold.



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This view shows the one inch gap between the sheer and foam.

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The surface quality of the molded fiberglass lining on the bottom of each billet was quite good.  Very little filling will be required prior to finishing.

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Total of 5 cubic feet will support up to 300 pounds. 

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We laminated a layer of 7-1/2 ounce fiberglass cloth to the topside of each billet.  In an effort to cut costs, we switched to polyester resin.  Overall, we might have saved a few dollars over the more expensive epoxy resin, but we didn't save any time.  It didn't stick too well to the foam so the fiberglass cloth kept lifting and creating air bubbles..  Once cured, we applied 2 coats of resin, sanded the billets and applied several rounds of polyester autobody filler.  We sprayed two medium wet coats of Feather-Fill polyester primer-surfacer. (14-MAR-2007)

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The billet in the foreground was blocked with 100 grit alumide paper.  A round of polyester finishing putty was applied to the low or blemished spots.

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The flotation billets can't be installed under the deck battens unless they're cut into two pieces. (24-DEC-2007)

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A long shank 1/4" drill bit was used to drill through the billet.

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The two piece billets are held in place by 6" lengths of 1/4"-20 stainless steel threaded rod.

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Here's the finished product.

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Here's the under-deck view.  Mounting the foam up high will ensure that the hull doesn't 'turtle' over when swamped.  We could have increased the thickness somewhat, but we wanted to minimize the amount of weight (and weight moments) in the bow section.  Total weight is approximately 12 pounds.  To offset this weight and balance the hull, more billets will be cast along the gunwales, intermediate deck beam and transom.

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For a sleek contemporary look, we've chosen a stainless steel pop-up bow light.  When not in use, it's flush with the deck . . .

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. . . and pops up when needed.

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The bow light is housed in a plastic receptacle which can be equipped with a hose barb and drain hose.  This unit was purchased from Marine Toys in Delta, British Columbia. 
See our Links Page for supplier information.
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To ensure adequate ventilation and prevent rot issues, we installed 1-1/2" diameter 3/4" marine grade plywood spacers between the deck battens and foam bilets

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The deck battens where counterbored to accept stainless steel barrel nuts.

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Once installed, the recess will be filled with epoxy and ground flush.

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To promote air circulation between the foam billet and deck battens, we fabricated 1-1/2" round spacer washers from 3/4" marine grade plywood.

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(04-MAY-2009)

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The finished product.

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Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : www.kanecustomboats.com      Revised 15-JAN-2015