The following photos depict construction details for the rear jump
seats. A custom-built ten gallon aluminum fuel tank will reside under
Building a form consisting of a piece of 3/4" plywood over the starboard-side
Pieces of scrap 1" x 6" spruce lumber were slipped into place to define
the vertical surface.
A 1/4" gap was left between the seat vertical and bottom edge of the
carling. Side piece was inset 1" from the carling's outside
face. In the foreground, you can see our custom-built transmission
shifter arms and linkage. More on this later !
Several pieces of 1" x 6" stubs were used to define the shape.
Building this form reminds me of when, as a kid, my Dad and I used to build HO model
train tables. With a bit of fiberglass screening, plaster of Paris and
paint, this would make a great railbed for a river trestle approach !
We produced 1/4" plywood templates to accurately reproduce the required
The mold was affixed to the router table and covered with 6 mil plastic before
applying the laminates.
First lamination was a .100" mahogany veneer followed up with 1-1/2 ounce
chop strand mat and topped with a layer of 8 ounce woven roving.
The flanges on either side of the lamination consist of woven roving
topped with a 1/4" plywood flange which was used to compress the
fiberglass and impart some strength to the flange.
Here's the part after we've pulled it from the plug. Total weight
is less than one pound.
Edges were trimmed and the part was given a light sanding before coating with
West Epoxy catalyzed with 207 Special Coating hardener. Aluminum clips
will be used to retain the top flange to the carling. The lower flange
will bolt to the seat bottom.
Casting was a success ! The piece fits like a glove and conforms nicely to the
carling's lower edge.
Ends were left long so that they can be trimmed after installation.
The starboard seat base was installed.
Front partition was bolted to the frame clip at frame # 3.
Rear partition was bolted to the motor stringer with an aluminum angle.