The oil pan sump was cut to move the engine 1-1/2" aft and 2-1/2" lower. This will
obviously generate quite a bit of work . . . A simpler solution would have been
to either install the frame timber on the aft side of the frame or move the
entire frame 2" aft. If the latter is done, the frame outline would change
(frame would not be as wide) so you'd have to loft frames #0 through #5
to pick up the new chine and sheer points.
(08-NOV-2006)
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The bottom of the rear sump was cut and replaced with a kicked-out pan bottom. This
mod will increase oil capacity by 3 quarts.
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The ledge around the bottom of the sump should inhibit oil movement. We want
to ensure that the oil pickup doesn't run out of oil when the bow rises while accelerating.
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We've left just enough clearance between the pan flange and kickouts to clear the starter.
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A full sump will also be added to the front of the pan.
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Side panels were joined with a flanged center section.
(18-NOV-2006)
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An air-powered panel flanger makes a neat joint between the pan and the newly grafted material.
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After much mig welding and grinding, the pan is starting to take shape . . .
(25-NOV-2006)
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Corners were cut back and rounded by adding hand-formed 1-1/2" radius sheet
metal corner pieces. The joints were metal-finished to hide the welds.
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View from inside the pan.
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Front sump kickouts are 3/4" narrower than the rear.
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Much grinding and cleanup is required on the inside of the pan.
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Two 16 gauge bottom panels were cut and fitted.
(20-MAR-2007)
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Trial fitting before final welding.
(26-MAR-2007)
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Now that looks a lot better !
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Before we modified the oil pan, the rear sump straddled a frame. When viewed from
the side, it stuck out quite a bit above the carlings. By altering the pan, the
engine sits 2-1/2" lower which should lower the boat's center of gravity and improve handling.
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Welded joints were silver-soldered and the oil pan was tested for leaks. Several
rounds of aluminized body filler (Evercoat Metal-2-Metal) were applied and smoothed
out. The pan was prepped and shot with two coats of DuPont 2580CR DTM primer.
(07-MAY-2007)
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The two plugs at the top of the pan will be used to insert a hose into each
sump. A rotary drill pump will make short work of oil changes. Several
rounds of primer surfacer and block-sanding will be needed to get the
substrate ready for paint. We're thinking of going with Corvette Yellow . . .
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Pan interior will be chemically cleaned and have all seams sealed with multiple coats of
DTM primer.
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At last ! The finished product . . . Pan was shot with Dupont Uro-Prime
primer-surfacer, block-sanded with 100 grit, reprimed, puttied, blocked with 180/220/320 grit,
sealed, topcoated with white basecoat followed by Corvette Yellow basecoat and finished with
several rounds of two-part Urethane Clear.
(13-MAY-2007)
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Pan interior was previously sealed with multiple coats of Dupont DTM primer.
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