|
Fenders get a prime coat of Dupont DTM urethane etching primer.
(21-SEP-2005)
|
Primed fender steps.
|
|
A white base coat is applied to kick up the topcoat color. Several rounds
of Imron metallic silver complete the job.
|
We detailed the bunk supports as well.
|
Here's the finished product. The fenders and tongue will be painted at a later
date since they'll likely get scratched up when the topside of the boat is
being finished.
(29-OCT-2005)
|
|
|
For added safety, boat/trailer packages exceeding 2000 pounds require
electric or hydraulic brakes. The hydraulic unit shown is equipped
with a reverse lock pin to prevent brake actuation when backing up the trailer.
|
|
|
Laminating the fender steps. 1-1/2" wide by 1/4" thick mahogany strips
were epoxied to two pieces of 1/4" marine grade plywood which were previously
fitted to the fender steps.
(08-MAY-2006)
|
Plank spacing was 1/4". Wax paper strips were used under
the hold-downs to prevent them from sticking to the lamination.
|
To prevent the white expoxy from marring the narrow strips, we applied
a base coat of West epoxy (207 clearcoat). Once cured, we taped the
edges and horizontal surfaces before applying the white epoxy.
(11-MAY-2006)
|
The epoxy mix consisted of West 105 resin, 404 high density filler, a touch of 403
microfibers and a spoonful of white epoxy tint. The tape was pulled after the
epoxy had cured for 30 minutes.
|
|
The fender steps are ready to be installed and final-clearcoated.
|
|
|
It's been a while, but we've finally finished up the fender steps.
(16-MAY-2008)
|
Edges were capped with mahogany veneer. Several coats of West System Epoxy catalysed
with 207 hardener were applied and block-sanded.
|
Final topcoat consisted of three rounds of two-part Nason Urethane Clear applied
with HVLP spray equipment. It feels good to chuck up a spray gun after using
bristle and foam brushes for so long !
|
We used the gantry lift to flip the trailer so we could easily weld the trailer tongue jack mounting
plate and build a removable winch stand.
(09-AUG-2010)
|
|
Here's a close-up photo of the 4" drop axle.
|
|
Our aluminum skid fin was too close to the crossmember so we cut it and created a U shaped extension to provide more clearance.
|
Here is a downside-up shot of the trailer tongue. We never liked the look of the tongue jack's strap-on U-bolts,
so we molded the mounting bracket into the trailer tongue.
|
We also molded in a piece of heavy duty square tube to act as a receiver for a removable winch post.
|
We welded a square tube stub into the fender step to receive a removable boat guide on the Port side. A 4' length of 1"
square tube drops into the socket and is held in place with a 1/4" x 2" stainless steel pin.
(17-JUL-2011)
|
At the 2012 Glen-L Boatbuilder Gathering, Lake Nickajack, Tennessee.
Photo by Gayle Brantuk, Glen-L Marine Designs.
|
Photo by Gayle Brantuk, Glen-L Marine Designs.
|
If building a boat trailer, I recommend ordering Glen Witt's book How to Build Boat Trailers.
All aspects of trailer construction are covered, including axles, hubs, wheels, brakes, tires, springs, couplers,
frame construction methods, and much more in easy-to-read non-technical language.
How to Build Boat Trailers" by Glen L Witt.
It's a real honour to have a photo of your boat trailer on one of Glen's books. Our Glen-L 2100 trailer is
featured in the top middle and lower right corner of the book cover.
Click here
to see Glen-L's Trailer Plans.
|
|