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Click on photos for larger view.
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I set my compass to the width of the widest point in the gap, and scribed this line back
through the entire strake.
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I used the bandsaw to cut the scribed line. In the picture, the pieces on the left will
go on the boat; The pieces on the right are scrap. You can see how much wider the planks
are at the bow (foreground) than they are amidships and at the stern. Final fitting to the
prior plank is done with a block plane. I made it a rule to only scribe and shape the
"leading" edge of each plank. I kept the training edge true to facilitate fitting of the
plank that would follow it. Overall, this is an area where I mis-planned. I did not account
for the large amount of waste that comes from spiling. I will need to go and buy more wood!
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We finally had a warmish day so I decided to take a crack at gluing up some of the finish
veneers. I turned up the space heaters and opened the door from the laundry room to the
garage. Got it up to about 45F. I laid the plywood and mahogany, let it cure,
cleaned it up, and gave it a quick sand. There are a few small gaps to be tidied up,
but I am very pleased with the look so far. I'll talk more about stapling later, but
I did this using plain old T50 staples with no washers, rope, tape, or cardboard. After
sanding, there are a few barely noticable staple holes. When the weather warms up again,
I'll try soaking the wood to close them up.
(25-FEB-2007)
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Here's another view. all the dry-fitted strakes from the side are stacked against
the wall behind. Unfortunately, the temperature has plummeted again, so it will be
a while until I can get to gluing that side.
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The first Strake is lined up and glued on. It is set parallel to the waterline, at the boot top.
(21-APR-2007)
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Fast forward a few days... All finish planking is glued on. We've got some sanding to do.
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Transom is laminated, as well. Still needs to be trimmed.
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Sanded with the belt sander and Random Orbital Sander (60 Grit) to get the fair, smooth
shape. Then went back and filled staple holes and any visible gaps between planks.
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SMOOOTH. Here it is after 120 grit sanding with the ROS. Next stop,180 grit.
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I've just wetted it out with water to give a sense of the colour. Because I had
underestimated the amount of waste, I ran out of wood. I needed to buy more. The bottom
two strakes (and the transom) are from a different board than the rest of the hull, and
have a visibly lighter colour. I'll experiment on some test pieces to see if the difference
will still be apparant after staining.
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Boring the propeller shaft hole |
I prepared a full-size drawing. Shaft angle is 16 degrees. Allowed room to remove prop without
dropping the rudder. (That's ink, not blood... the blood is encapsulated in the boat).
(09-MAY-2007)
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Flattened a spot on the bottom of the keel where the strut will be placed, and prepared a
"target block" with a 16 degree angle on the face.
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At the same time I flattened the spot for the fin. (The paper is a funny shape, because I
unfolded a kraft paper leaf bag).
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Shows how the tool will hit the "target block" that is temporarily fastened to the hull. The green
tape shows where the centre of the shaft hole will be.
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The tooling I borrowed (Thanks, Paul!) was designed for a shallower shaft angle, so was too long
for the distance between the strut and the target block. I needed to "enlarge the triangle", by
building a block to "raise and lengthen" the triangle, while protecting the 16 degree angle.
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Everything seems to line up.
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We are through the target block, and making good progress through the keel. Used chisels,
a spade bit, and other means to remove the waste left by the hole saw. We worked about an
inch at a time.
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Voila ! This isn't my shaft (I dont' have that yet). It's just the 1" shaft from the boring rig.
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